The Isle of Harris & Ceol na Mara

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by Phil MacDonald

In the Hebrides of Scotland the Gaelic language is the native language. Most places are now sign posted in the Gaelic with an English translation below in smaller writing. The Gaelic is an extremely poetic language and a lovely phrase is “Ceol na Mara” which, roughly translated, means the “music of the sea”, what a beautiful way in which to describe the sounds of the sea. Ceol na Mara is also a commonly used name for guest houses and bed and breakfasts especially on the Isle of Harris and the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides/Western Isles.

The Isle of Harris can be found off the west coast of Scotland separated from the Isle of Skye and the Scottish mainland by a ruthless stretch of water known as the Minch. Once part of the Norse and Manx kingdoms the Isle of Harris has a strong culture based upon it’s Celtic and Nordic past. The islands of the Hebrides have a strong association with the sea and there have been many Gaelic songs written about the sea and sea journeys.

When the weather is fine the Isle of Harris is one of the most beautiful places in the world. The air is pure and the waters crystal clear and the countryside is incredible. However it is the beaches of South Harris which are the most famously beautiful parts of the island. Many parts of Harris are special sites of scientific and historical interest with a few important historical sites and plenty of ground known as machair (which is a rare type of fertile land on which many rare wildflowers grow).

The Hebridean culture has a long, and sometimes troublesome, past. At one time the islands of the Hebrides we ruled by the Lords of the Isles. These rulers, especially Somerled, were incredibly powerful and something of a threat to the kings of Scotland. It was during this period that the unique mix of the Nordic and the Celtic cultures helped create the wonderful Hebridean culture. Both cultures have a deep understanding of poetic writing and even today the ‘Bard’ is an important member of society who writes poems and songs, often influenced by Ceol na Mara and the countryside.

There are a number of places on the Isle of Harris that are worthy of a visit. North Harris is where you will find the main town of Tarbert but there is little there to keep you occupied for more than an hour. A short drive around North Harris is well worth the time and, at one point, the main road passes directly in front of the entrance to a castle (through the garden). South Harris has the beaches to visit but also take time to visit Rodel at the southern end of the Island, where you will find a beautiful medieval church which you are free to explore.

One of the best places to enjoy Ceol na Mara is on the Isle of Harris and, luckily, the island is far more accessible than it was in the past. Today it is possible to fly to Stornoway airport which is over on the Isle of Lewis but, fortunately, Lewis and Harris are joined together so you are able to drive down to Harris. The most popular mode of transport used to get to the Isle of Harris is the ferry which comes into the main town of Tarbert from the Isle of Skye. Another ferry travels between the small village of Leverbrugh and the Uists.

One or two of the guest houses on the Isle of Harris are known as Ceol na Mara as many are very close to the shore and most have wonderful views out to sea. Besides the incredible views from the guest houses of Harris the hospitality is truly incredible and of the highest standard. Harris is so wonderfully peaceful that you can often hear the music of the sea as you drift off to sleep.

You will also be amazed at the quality of the bed and breakfast accommodation available in a Harris hotel. There are only a few Harris hotels and one of the finest is a small hotel found just outside the town of Tarbert known as Ardhasaig House. Sadly you are unlikely to hear Ceol na Mara at Ardhasaig House but you do get some of the best views available from hotel accommodation on the Isle of Harris. Another way to stay on Harris is camping or you could bring a caravan. However there is really only one camping site/caravan park on the island and it is basically a field alongside one of the beaches.

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