The Isle of Harris, An Introduction

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by John Angus Macleod

Not far off the west coast of Scotland is a group of over 200 islands known as the Outer Hebrides or Western Isles, one of these is the Isle of Harris. Although the tourist industry is an important part of the islands economy generally most people will only know of the place because of the very popular cloth called Harris Tweed. Although known as Harris Tweed because it was generally made on the Isle of Harris it is now also made on the adjoining Isle of Lewis.

Tarbert is the main village on the Isle of Harris and where you can catch the roll on roll off ferry. Tarbert is something of a picture postcard scene with the old houses along the narrow main street and more modern buildings appearing on terraces up one side of the narrow green valley it is set in. In stark contrast the ferry terminal and access road are very modern having been built relatively recently to ease congestion when the ferry is in port.

North Harris is rather rocky with huge jagged mountains that dominate the skyline and prove popular with many hill walkers. There are a number of challenging walks which usually take about an hour. Driving around North Harris you may find yourself a little confused as you approach Amhuinnsuide Castle (pronounced rather like ‘avan-soo-ee’). As you approach the castle you get the feeling that you have somehow ended up on a private road. Strangely the public highway passes right through the main entrance and passed the front door.

About 15 minutes drive from Tarbert is the small island called the Isle of Scalpay which is joined to the Isle of Harris by a narrow single track bridge. Scalpay once had a population of well over 800 and was an incredibly busy fishing community. Today the population is less than 300 but there is still a small but active fishing fleet. The north harbour is where you will find the pier but one of the best places to visit involves a trek across open moorland. Eilean Glas lighthouse was the first built in Scotland erected in 1788. Now automated the buildings and surrounding grounds are both beautiful and interesting.

Moving along to South Harris you will notice a change of scenery. Although the east side of the island is very rocky the west side of South Harris is lush and green. the rolling hills are far softer and there are large areas of machair (highly fertile grassland), which has plenty of wildflowers and is most beautiful. It is along the west coast that you will find the most beautiful beaches on the Isle of Harris and, most probably, Scotland and even the United Kingdom.

Driving southwards along the west coast can be somewhat dangerous if you have not visited Harris before. While you will quickly become accustomed to the single track roads the spectacular sights of the most astounding beaches (to your right) often causes drivers to suddenly slow down. Often the drivers have become so overcome by the amazing scenery that they are unaware of traffic behind. Please be prepared for this and take the greatest care to consider others. I am not exaggerating the reactions are often extreme. The best thing to do is to pull over and take the time to enjoy the views at no risk to others.

The next village you arrive at is Leverburgh where you can travel over to Berneray and the Uists via a CalMac ferry. Leverburgh also has two useful shops, one stocking groceries and fuel and the other a local post office selling locally produced good and gifts.

The last point of your southerly journey around the Isle of Harris brings you to the village of Rodel. Once the main town of the Isle of Harris Rodel is only a very small village but it features the incredible medieval church of St Clements. This is a must see tourist attraction which you can collect the keys to at the nearby hotel. Outside is wonderful but it is inside that you can see the beautifully decorated tombs and head stones.

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